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The life
& times
of 
Warren Swil

 

 

January 2004

For the first time in eight years, I visited Johannesburg and Cape Town in January, 2004. What enormous changes I saw; not the least, of course, was that I was so much older, and wiser! But the country is incredibly dynamic, activity everywhere, the people enthused with optimism - they are really working on solving their problems and building a 21st century society. Johannesburg, where I spent the first three days, is unfortunately a fortress-city. Crime is so rampant almost everyone has to live behind electrified fences atop 8-foot walls. Cape Town has supplanted it as the center of activity in the country, with booming development, tourism and manufacturing. For the first time I can ever remember, people are migrating there from Jo'burg.
The highlight (or, perhaps, lowlight) of my trip was our drive up to Rhodes Memorial. On the way down, I glanced away from the road momentarily ... and we ended up in a ditch! 

The narrow road had a 2-foot edge; with two wheels over the side the car was tilting at about 45-degrees. 

"Damn! Why do they drive on the wrong side of the road?"

Another 6 inches and all four wheels would have been over the side, and we would have tumbled about 50 feet down the hillside into the university campus below.

Fortunately, some good Samaritans called the forest rangers on our behalf. They arrived, amazingly, within minutes and were ever so helpful. Less than 10 minutes later a tow truck showed up, then a second -- it took one to hold the car upright while the other yanked it back on the road. Whew! Was I ever embarrassed. The bill: R1,970 (that is, one thousand nine hundred seventy RAND). Thank goddess; it was only $280!

In Johannesburg, I visited my sister, Ann, and her husband, Jeff Marcus at their lovely home in the northern suburbs. At left is the only picture I manage to snatch from them ... they are such reluctant "models" ... sitting on their patio. 

They are, however, a fabulous couple, kept eternally young by their son, Captain (!!) Grant Marcus, soon to be a pilot with South African Airways, and daughter, Tracey ... who has now gotten so many frequent-flier miles from all her trips between London and Jo'burg that she, too, gets to ride in the cockpit! Talk about an UPGRADE!

As previously arranged, I met Michael Wright from San Diego who had arrived there a week before me. One sunny day we took a driving tour of the peninsula. Among the funniest sights we saw was this billboard ... it pointed the way to an art gallery that was listed in the Pink Pages (gay friendly) so we pulled over. And we looked ... and looked .... but whatdidjaknow! There was no art gallery, or if there had once been one, it was closed and not even a sign to warn the unsuspecting tourist.

Sunset on the patio with Michael Wright, left, 
. . . before the lights went out.

Finally, after all that driving around, we ended up just in time for sunset at an oh-so-elegant cafe overlooking the boardwalk in Camps Bay. As we arrived, the sun was sinking into the western Atlantic Ocean and it was a gorgeous sight to behold. Somewhat later, during the twilight, our friend from Wales suddenly said, "Hey, who turned off the lights?" We laughed. "No, honey, the sun is going down. Have another cocktail," I said.

Well, guess who turned out to be the fool. As it got darker, we didn't really notice that there were no lights on in the restaurant, and slowly it seemed the place was emptying out. Only when Michael pulled out his Visa to pay the bill, and the waitress said, "Oh, no! We can't take that .... our power is out!" did we realize the entire neighborhood had been plunged into darkness. 

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